All the discussion of communist t-shirts overlooked, as far as I can tell, the use of fashion to make a statement about a political or a social issue, as opposed to being an aspect of the commodification of dissent. The photo of Naomi Campbell above is from British designer Katharine Hamnett’s London Fashion Show parade in 2003. Hamnett’s use of Campbell as a model had a specific aim: to raise awareness of condoms to prevent HIV/AIDS in Africa:
She said Campbell, still the world’s best-known black model, was the perfect figurehead for a campaign aimed largely at sub-Saharan Africa, where AIDS and HIV are rampant. “She’s such a huge icon in places like South Africa,” Hamnett said. “I designed the vest two years ago and I’ve been trying to track Naomi down since then. I’m very glad to have her on board and really happy she could do the show today.”
The Age today has an article reflecting on politics and fashion:
The program director of fashion at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, Karen Webster, baulks at any suggestion that catwalks and chests are not appropriate places for social and political messages to be expressed. “Fashion has always been embedded in social issues and politics. We teach our students that they are obliged to study the broader social world. Smart designers see the bigger picture and they always have.
might be a tad conspicuous for some :)
Since when did fashion designers and drugged up super models know anything about public health?
C’mon mark – get a grip. Next you’ll be telling us the Bennetton adverts were “sensitive”
In a sense, fashion is always political. Just not in explicit ways.
In terms of something like Ms Campbell’s glittery singlet, I’m not convinced it will make a shred of difference.
However, I do think fashion designers are perfectly entitled to use their medium to attempt to get across a message.
Mark, the really significant issue is not the T shirts, or the commodifacation of dissent, it is the silence of the left regarding the treason of communists and fellow travellers who enjoyed the freedoms and material benefits of democratic capitalism while they worked and schemed to destroy that system in favour of a rival system that enslaved hundreds of millions and tortured tens of millions of them to death. I know many people involved in this discussion would rather talk about other things and that is an interesting phenomenon which is worthy of further investigation. I wonder which school of Sociology will be the first to pursue that project.
I actually wonder if those wearing Che t-shirst do so because of what he stands for or whether they even know what he stands for.
I asked a guy wearing a che t-shirt who he (che) was – he had no idea. He said he had heard of him but didn’t really know who he was and wore the t-shirt because he liked it.
So is is really ideology or just fashion.
I think it is a bit hazy Polly. The iconographic Che does look like a cool dude. As one of the commenters in a thread Sam Ward linked to yesterday said (in relation to the Cherry Guevara Magnum Ice Cream Revolution ), “he’s my hero. I was first introduced to him by Rage Against The Machine – who are carrying on his life’s work.”
You’d have to be a complete Santa-denying arsehole to cavil at that analysis.
Geoff, Polly, you have a point, but we definitely have to start worrying when socialists defend the use of Che iconography as ‘a symbol of fighting oppression’, even to the extent of denying historical reality.
I picked up on such a debate in the early days of my old blog:
http://novocastria.blogspot.com/2004_02_01_novocastria_archive.html#107769276994908933
“Since when did fashion designers and drugged up super models know anything about public health?”
Since when did the blogosphere know anything about fashion, public health or any real world issues for that matter? I hope I’ve missed the sarcasm in FXH’s comment. If not, christ, give it up.
Me? I enjoy sporting my current political Tees. Plenty of funny looks and many funny conversations with lefties, righties and no idea-ies.
Raising awareness is the point, like a billboard, ‘cept it talks.
Some sport Che images, Harry sports a swastika, both are just symbols with various meanings (depending upon your knowledge).
Ask somebody wearing an “I had an Abortion” tee if they know what it means.
As a value-free sociologist, I’m not saying anything for or against political fashion, Francis, just throwing it out for discussion…
As to style in the blogosophere, remember the Hawaiian shirt:
http://troppoarmadillo.ubersportingpundit.com/archives/008070.html
“Me? I enjoy sporting my current political Tees. Plenty of funny looks and many funny conversations with lefties, righties and no idea-ies.”
It’s a risky business Tiny. For instance, if I see someone wearing an “I had an abortion” T at an abortion rights rally I’d think it was entirely appropriate. If I saw someone wearing it at the mall or a party I’d think it was either self-parodic, pomo ‘irony’ (particularly if it was a bloke) or more likely, a bit of a wank. If I saw an elderly Fijian grandmother wearing a “Dyke!” T in a village on Vanua Levu (and I have) I’d think that she probably isn’t (though I might ask her if she’s heard of k.d.lang). I would definitely reflect on how western self-advertorial ends up in the oddest places.
As a general rule, I think it’s best to share your worldview principally via conversation – unless you’re Naomi Campbell.
One of the right’s hates is celebs promoting a message. And they don’t hate it because it’s ineffectual.
However they don’t mind voting for one themselves if he runs in Calif, but.
“the silence of the left regarding the treason of communists and fellow travellers who enjoyed the freedoms and material benefits of democratic capitalism while they worked and schemed to destroy that system in favour of a rival system that enslaved hundreds of millions and tortured tens of millions of them to death”
If we believed in the substance of “systems” as literally as this comment requires us to, then
yes, ex-communists would be in gaol as accessories to murder, otherwise the comment is hot-air.
The argument needs to be ratcheted down a bit. Strocchi put it best (roughly) “Oz communists’ political judgement was shown to be naive & ignorant”. Hardly a capital offence. Just like Australians who supported Bush & Wolfowitz in Iraq. (Of course, Bush actually has a case to answer. He killed a hundred thousand trying to get at non-existent WMD. His claimed motive needs to be tested by a court.
Naomi (and Mark B for that matter)can and will wear anything they like.
TinyT – I was responding to the high flying implication that anything a fashion designer in London or T shirt wearer does would have an impact on HIV in “sub-Saharan Africa”. Or anywhere much for that matter.
And I do happen to know a lot about public health (and HIV in particular)and fashion. On fashion Nabakov is my referee.
“On fashion Nabakov is my referee.”
He’s Svengali to your Trilby?
Geoff,
yes, yes, discussion is the key. I also sound like an idiot (to complement my ‘bold’ t-shirt fashions).
FXH,
aah, I see, now.
Still, Naomi may know less, than most, she is known by many. Considering the Pope is doing his best to circumvent the solutions scientific knowledge has come up with, she’s ok by me.
“Still, Naomi may know less, than most, she is known by many.”
Indeed. And few people look as good as Naomi when walking twenty paces, turning and walking 20 paces. Still, it’s hardly a convincing life achievement oeuvre. I guess we’ll have to reserve judgement on the extent of her world-changing impact until her lingerie range is released.
Naomi is just as effective as any other billboard. If it makes you look at the slogan, the advertisers are happy.
Because Naomi is black and prominent, she gets printed a lot in South Africa (I presume), so the image travels.
After all, when the armies of suit-survivors wear their Nike Tees around here on the weekend, Nike is laughing because they see them as billboards. Preferably taut muscled rather than saggy.
Ironically, the wearers adopt the slogan because they think it gives them cred. Not the other way, although I suppose with celebrities it is a kind of symbiosis.
FX, BTW, looks v. cool in a suit. In a Tee, I dunno.
“He’s Svengali to your Trilby?”
Boswell to my Wilde
In a blokey australian hetro way.
I suppose this means that my Chairman Mao souvenir watch, a recently received gift, complete with mechanical waving arm is now de rigeur?
They used a Polichicks t-shirt in that article. They also referenced us rather vaguely as ‘Australian designers’, which I don’t loathe.
We’ve always thought – and I use ‘we’ in a completely non-royal sense here – that encouraging others to think about political issues can be done in a myriad of ways. Fashion is only a toe-dip in the waters.
John: I’ve got one of those!
For interested readers, ms fits’ (and partner’s) range of political fashion can be found here:
http://www.polichicks.org/
Apparently when Tory Minister, Spectator editor, and philanderer bonking Boris Johnson had a meeting with George Bush, he happened to be wearing one of the Chairman Mao wristwatches, as well…
that’d be this Boris Johnson:
http://troppoarmadillo.ubersportingpundit.com/archives/007723.html
and:
http://troppoarmadillo.ubersportingpundit.com/archives/007884.html
Polichicks rocks, ms fits! I’m contemplating buying some political underwear to go with the yellow vinyl dress!
i think katharine hamnett is great and her slogans really do have meaning to them.